[three_fourth_last]It has been a little while now since my first write up of the quality of Lee Filters Big Stopper and after it’s first real test I am very pleased to pass on my findings along with a few sample shots.

All the images here were taken during a trip to Clachtoll Bay in the West Highlands of Scotland. Stunning location and a beach to die for.

My first shot with the Big Stopper was an experiment to see if I could make an overcast day look interesting.

It was windy, the clouds were moving fairly fast overhead with the occasional glimpse of sun. It was about 3pm and a good hour and a half before the sun was due to set.

After isolating a nice piece of seaweed on the pristine sand and using Split Rock to frame the shot I took the camera settings, looked at the conversion table and dialed in the exposure. The conversion chart recommended a 30 secs exposure….

The time ticked by and my heart sank when the image appeared…. under exposed, not just slightly but extremely under exposed!

Lesson one picked up and packed away in the kit bag.

At the best of times light can change intensity a lot from one minute to the next. Under normal circumstances this would require minor changes and if the shot is only a fraction of a second, it is quickly identified and corrected.

Not so with the Big Stopper! A 30 sec exposure at the time of pressing the shutter can end up requiring 1-2 minutes should the light intensity drop. By the time the long exposure noise reduction has done it’s thing you may have been waiting for 4 minutes…. quite a wait to find out it hasn’t worked!

With this newly learned lesson in place, I doubled the exposure to 1 minute as there were darker clouds on the way!

This time the result was what I was hoping for and more; The power of the Big Stopper was realised. Cool Sands was the first landscape shot taken in anger using Lee’s Big Stopper.

As the day rolled on and the light started to fade the exposure times started to increase! 2-4 minutes seemed about the norm as sunset approached.

A 2 minute exposure if you are using long exposure noise reduction means a wait of 4 minutes or so between shots. A 4 minute exposure results in an 8 minute wait!

This time between shots does not have to be dead time though! It gives you the opportunity to scout around looking for your next shot or to try and find different angles for the shot you are taking.

I found this slowed the thought process down in a positive way. Rather than rushing around, I found myself with a lot more time to consider everything detail assessing each element of the shot and how I would get the best out of it.

By using the Big Stopper, I had inadvertently changed the way I looked for and took shots.

By the time the last shot was appearing on my screen I was already repositioning the camera for the next. Press the shutter, think, reposition and take the shot, press the shutter, think, reposition and so on and so on. Very methodical, tranquil almost.

I wanted to use the Big Stopper to capture the sun as it disappeared below the horizon but I knew the exposure would be at least 2 minutes, 4 minutes between shots.

The sun moves very fast as it nears the horizon and I knew that I would only get one chance at it. I dialed in 130 secs for the exposure, an extra 10 secs for luck!

I was hoping to capture the soft tones in the moving clouds and the surf on the beach. The stone was to anchor the shot and provide an element that was in sharp focus and would draw the eye towards the right to left diagonal lead in line of the reflection.

When the weather turns, seascapes can be challenging, dark seas, rocks and sky can result in a very heavy and dark image.

With this in mind I set out to turn the sea milky so it would contrast against Split Rock and the rock formation I had found for the foreground. This meant the foreground rock became the main feature that created a lead in line to Split Rock on the horizon.

The almost dry ice affect on the sea also created mysterious feel to the shot, a feeling of setting out into the unknown, the mysteries of the deep.

I feel that the Big Stopper allows you to be more creative and provides an element of variety to your work. Although, if you used it for everything it would become very predictable and boring….. variety being the spice of life etc.

As well it’s creative tendency, the Big Stopper can also provide tranquility by the bucket load. Creating peaceful shots seem to come naturally to it. As do cool tones!

I found the cool tones that come from the Big Stopper to be a positive. At times you needed to tame them a little by increasing the temperature of the shot during processing though.

This next shot is an example of that. By increasing the temperature of the shot I was able to bring out more of the yellow and red tones that gave the shot a warmer and more relaxed feel to it. I left the foreground relatively clutter free bar one stone that is positioned off centre below the upturned V of the reflection.

Even though it is faint and fairly small in a large open space, I feel it draws your attention more as a result and makes you think about walking up to it and picking it up!

I don’t think I could go out again without taking the big Stopper with me. Not only do I really enjoy the unique landscape photographs it provides but I also like the time it gives me between shots.

If you buy the Big Stopper, don’t think of this as dead time! Think of it as time to work out the finer details of the next shot or alternatives to your current one. It’s giving you permission to walk way from the view finder and use your eyes to look around you, time to reflect on what you want to achieve!

Do I think the Big Stopper is worth it…… dam right I do! It shouldn’t replace the shots you are taking now, it should compliment them by adding variety to your portfolio!

In terms of build quality it is superb! From the filter to the pouch it has an air of quality about it. I haven’t experienced any issues with light leakage when using it with the Lee Filter holder and wide angle lens adapter.

In terms of use, follow the steps below and you should find it easy to use.

Don’t forget the conversion times are based on the light levels remaining at a constant level throughout the exposure. You must judge whether the light will increase or decrease in intensity during the exposure and adjust the time accordingly. A bit of experimentation is required!

If you do all of this I am sure you will be very happy with Lee’s latest offering, the Big Stopper!

Step by Step guide

1. Compose the shot without the filter.

2. Focus the shot either manually or using auto-focus

3. Take three readings, one under, one over and one spot on. if the light looks like it is going to change then you will have three readings to choose from.

4. Switch off the autofocus.

5. Cover the view-finder with the cover that comes with the camera or use a bit of black electrical tape to prevent light leakage.

6. Without disturbing the setup, attach the filter holder to the camera with the filter in the first slot and the gasket facing the camera. You must ensure the gasket is fully in contact with the holder and lens adapter to prevent light leaking in. It is best to fit the filter to the holder first, then attach the holder to the camera. This reduces the chance of it disturbing the camera and tripod.

7. Using the meter readings you took earlier, check against the conversion table for the best exposure time. Don’t forget to take into consideration the conditions, will the light intensity increase or decrease during the shot?!?

Hope you have found this useful and thanks for reading!

Duncan

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